2004 09 – Egypt – Day 1

I hire a guide (Rob) and driver (Rambo) through the hotel, the Cosmopolitan. Our first stop is a view point where the Giza Pyramids can be seen for the first time. My guide thought that taking a picture with my hand over the pyramid was a good idea; he wouldn't take one otherwise.

As we drive through the busy streets of Cairo and then into Giza, I get my first close-up view of the pyramids.

We stop at a point to take a few pictures before heading down to the base of the Great Pyramid. Once again my tour guide insisted that I put my hand over the pyramid.

The entrance into the Great Pyramid is on the North face, you can see a few people going into the entrance a few steps up from the floor. This is where my guide somehow got me a ticket for $100 Egyptian Pounds (About $20 Canadian) to enter the Great Pyramid later this day.

As I entered the pyramid I was reminded that no pictures were allowed. My guide assured me that if I wished it would be all right to take a picture in the first part of the tunnel if I was willing to give a tip to the guard at the entrance. This is the way of the Egyptian culture, tipping is a way of life and I believe most of the income for many is based on what they can make in tips or bribes. Many things are possible once you realize and conform to the unwritten rules of the local people. I never took any pictures inside because I was a little unsure and was being careful in my new surroundings.

The initial part of the tunnel was roughly carved through the limestone in order to reach the original structure inside. The next part was at a fairly level plane and high enough so you wouldn’t have to bend over. Then it was about a 40 metre climb going at a fairly sharp angle with a low ceiling; I needed to crouch down going up the roughly made steps. It now levelled off to where you could either continue up or go straight to where the famous Ganderbrinks Shaft is located. There was only one option as the way to go straight was locked up and it was not clear why. Going up the next part of my climb had much more room, approximately 10 metres in height and maybe 6 metres wide with the walls slowly narrowing as it went up to the ceiling. It was amazing how accurate the stones were placed to create this opening so deep inside the pyramid, no room for even a slip of paper to fit between any of these blocks. At the end of this climb was a small landing where you could take a good look down where I was almost tempted to take a picture with no one else around. Next it was a corridor over to the King’s Chambers where you had to crouch down under a few blocks, hard to understand why this part was built the way it is. Of course not sure if anyone does know or will ever know the true nature of this structure.

Once I was inside the Kings Chambers there was plenty of room to walk around but it was not well lit so it took a little while for my eyes to adjust. Hard to describe how it felt but surreal definitely comes into mind as I walked around the room with no one else around. The walls are very smooth in this room made of granite and they say it is a perfect fit looking at some mathematical properties. A perfect 2 to 1 match from width to length and the height compared to its length creates some perfect triangles. I sat inside for some time before some other tourists made their way inside, I may have startled them but no harm done. Back down to the entrance where my guide was waiting along with Rambo.

I climb up a few steps of the pyramid on the North face for a few pictures. One of the many armed security guards waved me down once I got too high. I was a little nervous with all the armed guards that were present at many of the sites that I would visit in Egypt. However, after awhile I was more relaxed once I realized they were more of an icon to show security than an icon of force.

I decided not to walk around the pyramid as I know I would be back in a few days with my group. Next up was a short drive past the pyramids and to the East around 300 meters to where the Sphinx is located. The Sphinx sits around 10 metres lower than the pyramids and is not too far from the stretching outskirts of Cairo.

In plain view a Kentucky Fried Chicken and Pizza Hut are set up catering to some of the tourists needs. Contrasts of antiquity versus the needs of our society today are defined easily in this scene. I never visited any fast food restaurants in my entire visit but rather sat in many traditional Egyptian style eateries.

Another ticket was required for entrance into the sphinx but it was all included. Many tourist police every where you went with most of them just sitting idly by and letting everything go on around them as it may. The guards were there mainly if things get out of hand; at least that was what I was hoping. They all have rifles or pistols and some have both, at first it’s a little unnerving but after awhile you hardly notice them at all. Through the admission gate to be greeted again by the locals trying to sell anyone anything. They're very persistent and can be quite annoying but as I will learn you just must learn to disregard them or soon all your money will be gone. A 100 meter walk from the front gates to the head of the Sphinx gives the local peddlers plenty of room to grab at you trying to get your attention. It was only a short walk through a few of the pillars before we're standing by the Sphinx.

The Sphinx is sitting down in a pit and you’re looking at it about half ways up while standing on top of a corridor that leads up to the center Pyramid. There are many ideas of the use of the corridor, one of funeral precessions and other ideas of astronomical significance creating an enigma for later generation to marvel over. Many fascinating ideas but who is to know for sure is in our future. I was hoping to get a little closer but no one is allowed in the pit in which the sphinx sits and with the afternoon heat is was soon time to go. I knew I would be back with my group in a few days to investigate a little more.

It was a very long day for me, I was not feeling well from all the travel and did not have adequate sleep. However, it was a day that will stay with me forever. I'm lucky enough to see the Giza Pyramids along with the Sphinx and now a final picture with it all in the background.